And I gave up polyurethane varnish washes in favor of Future many years ago. It doesn't take much time: I apply washes rather boldly, with a large brush, which gets loaded with water before picking up a load of wash, which increases the dilution. I frequently mix the wash with low pigment, expecting to apply a second wash. Two low-density ink washes will also have a better effect that one heavy one. The pigment flows over the slick untinted Future wash coat to the crevices and low points. If the surface is grainy and likely to "grab" the pigment in the ink wash, a wash of dilute Future before applying the ink wash will dramatically reduce (to the point of elimination) any staining of raised surfaces. I found it unsuitable due to not having a suitable area to liberally spatter the walls with it. You really have to shake it off the mini vigorously (which not all minis will appreciate). Unlike John, I use a 50:50 Future//water base, and add ink as needed: I never use a "stock" mix, but make one fresh for the task at hand, as I may want to adjust the ink depending on the primary color scheme of the figures.Īs far as staining, much depends on the "tooth" and graininess of both the primer and paint. Quickshade comes in a tin large enough to literally dip the minis. We've talked about that more than a few times. "Constantly reading about peeps being able to get the ink/wash/future mix working, but from my experience it acts more as a stain that I have to paint over again than an actual time saving wash."Īpparently the constant reading missed the tips to preclude staining. I've noticed that the models look a right royal mess until they're varnished. Spraying with matt varnish is a defininte must, you cannot skip that step. So far it's worked fine, it doesn't give an award winning finish but I've been able to get a good wargamer standard paint job out of it. I brush it on, then clear up the excess with a clean brush or occasionally a q-tip/cotton bud dipped in turps. If it wasn't for the deadline and volume I'd be far more fussy about the results. Constantly reading about peeps being able to get the ink/wash/future mix working, but from my experience it acts more as a stain that I have to paint over again than an actual time saving wash.Ĭurrently using the Army Painter medium tone to do a mass of Soviet tanks. I've used a future (pledge in AU)/water FW acrylics sepia ink mix for my 15mm figures, but found the results to be more in line with a GW ink (the old ones, not the new ones). John, do you dilute the future stock with water at all?
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